Sweets mark the occasions
Almost every Pakistani celebration has its own sweet. Sheer khurma is Eid ul Fitr morning. Zarda and firni appear at weddings, kheer at religious gatherings, and boxes of gulab jamun go round when there’s good news. Winter means gajar ka halwa, made in quantity and eaten warm for weeks.
Most of these start with milk
Kheer, firni, kulfi, rasmalai and rabri all depend on full-fat milk, reduced slowly until it’s thick and slightly sweet on its own. Three habits make this easier. Use the widest, heaviest pot you own, since more surface means faster reduction and less catching. Scrape the bottom and sides every time you stir, because burnt milk spoils everything. And add sugar late: in rice puddings, sugar added too early stops the grains from softening.
Sugar syrup without fear
Gulab jamun, shahi tukray and suji halwa use a simple sugar syrup. For soaking, you want a thin syrup that’s still slightly sticky between your fingers. That’s usually sugar and water in equal measure, simmered for five or six minutes after the sugar dissolves. A squeeze of lemon stops it crystallising. Keep the syrup warm, not boiling, when the jamuns go in, so they soak it up and swell.
The party desserts
Pakistani parties have their own modern classics: fruit trifle layered with sponge, custard and jelly, and lab-e-shireen, a chilled custard full of fruit, jelly cubes and vermicelli. Both are made the day before, which makes them ideal when you’re cooking for a crowd.
More to try
More sweet-shop and home favourites: jalebi, rabri, kalakand, barfi, chum chum, habshi halwa, gajrela, fruit custard, gur wale chawal and doodh dulari.